We like Kaiki Beach Club restaurant which is a little more fancy and has a cute bar next door with a great atmosphere. Or Zogeria beach, for its cute laid-back beach taverna.

You’re on a Greek island, so you’re going to spend a lot of time either in or by the sea. But part of the fun on Spetses—where cars are verboten—is reaching that water. One option is on bike.

Spetses offers 'authenticity, charm, natural beauty and relaxed sophistication', says Teresa Levonian Cole. She checked into the Poseidonion Grand Hotel before exploring the island.

From Zogeria Bay, bordered by towering pines and olive trees, to the family friendly turquoise waters of Agios Mamas, Spetses is blessed with calm, naturally scenic beaches.

You can’t mention Spetses though without noting the region’s seemingly perfect beaches which are among the main reasons why so many visitors fall in love with this spot and include Agia Marina ...

Extremely clear and clean water. Watch out for sea urchins though." Another added: "Zogeria beach is a must when in Spetses. Crystal clear, blue zaphire waters offer an idyllic environment.

Avoid Vrelos beach. Considering the island offers some of the most secluded beaches imaginable, Vrelos, the most popular beach, is noisy with unimpressive food.

Fortunes have ebbed and flowed since then, as mass tourism beat a slow retreat from Spetses’ beaches. But behind the picture-postcard facade, the times have never been worse than now.

There are lots of hotels on Spetses itself but it’s busy over race weekend so staying a water taxi across away in Porto Heli is a good option (Nikki Beach Resort from £153 per night, nikkibeach ...