Surfing sage Nick Carroll responds: Wow! What a question. Kinda strikes to the heart of how we see surfing: is it something to be done, or judged, or both? I suspect the reason you haven’t read a ...

Taking up surfing as a career or a hobby is a move that requires gut-wrenching hard work to transition from beginner to expert over time. Growing from a full-time catching and riding prone beginner ...